Repower Experiences

[Libations Too]

I am starting to evaluate repower options so that when the time comes, I have a sense of what may work. I have looked at the repower photos in the links but am eager to hear what lessons were learned.

I would appreciate hearing from others who have already replaced their engine....problems getting the old engine out, what engine did you choose, problems with the install, and how has the new engine performed (speed, fuel economy, noise, ease of maintenance....oil filter, fuel filter, water pump access, etc.).  Oh, and cost info if you are willing to share.

Thanks!

[Captain Bri]

Just happened to read an article in the latest Ocean Navigator on repowering a 34 ft boat with a Beta 28:  http://www.oceannavigator.com/content/installing-engine.  Since our PO had a Volvo D1-30 installed I don't have first-hand experience with a repower - but I will try to get some photos of how it fits, and some cost info.

[OZ]

in the middle of a Beta 28 instal...boat show discount plus add on extras for 100 amp alternator about  $ 10k    will have photos online soon.  The engine bed modification seems to be the biggest concern.   The Beta sits farther forward on bed than Volvo MD11.

[Libations Too]

With the Beta 28 did you choose options that move the sevice points (water pump, fuel and oil filter, etc to the forward side of the engine?

And did you find it necessary to cut the liner at the sink to remove the MD11C? Did you consider the Beta 25?

I look forward to seeing the photos.
Richard

[selene]

I can only give you a partial answer; my PO repowered with a Westerbeke 3B before I got the boat (repower in 2005).  Somehow the yard got it in without cutting anything (from what I have seen, the piece in the galley which separates the engine cover from the under-sink door seems often to be cut).  It is a tight fit - replacing the impeller in particular is a pain.  However, there are two things I particularly appreciate.  First, he repositioned the oil filter to a convenient location off the engine - it connects to the engine with rubber pipes.  Some engines allow this.

Second, he installed a drip-free seal on the prop shaft.

Fuel filters are easy - they are just on the left (i.e stbd fwd) as you remove the engine cover. I had assumed that was the original position?

If I were to do this, I would want to take a good look at the fuel tank - if it is showing signs of age, it'll be a heck of a lot easier to replace it with the engine out.  Having the engine out also offers a great opportunity to clean up the area, and consider other upgrades (a separate starter battery is one I often think about) which will be so much easier to do with the engine compartment empty. So when you get the big decision about the engine made, start writing up the list of things you can do while it is out!!

[Captain Bri]

Word of note on raw water intake. I spoke with the mechanic/installer of my Volvo D1-30 and he had advised the PO to upgrade the raw water intake from 1/2" to 3/4" with the increase in HP. Well the advise was not taken and now I find the engine running from 198-203 degrees this summer, which is the max recommended in the specs. Now that I am having the boat hauled and considering a new thru-hull.

[Dolce_Vita]

For all you older P-323 owners (the boat, not the owner!):

My 1977 P323 came with the original Atomic-4 engine.  After 33 years of raw-water-cooled service in the Chesapeake Bay, it gave up the ghost in 2010 with a cracked block,
due to improper winterizing by a previous owner.

Faced with a repower, I did a lot of research.  Despite much pressure from many sources to convert to diesel, I concluded that it did not make economic sense for many reasons.
The P323 is a poor candidate for gas to diesel conversion due to it's V drive.  It won't fit any current production diesel, and must be replaced as well, further upping the cost.
In addition, current diesel V drives have a different V angle than the original Walter V drive, necessitating extensive surgery on the engine mounts.

I found that there is nothing wrong with an Atomic-4 powerplant. There is a STRONG user base support.  40,000 were built, and aprox. 20,000 are still in service. Parts,
castings, and whole rebuilt engines are still available.  Its a simple, easy to understand and repair engine, which means a lot when you're out cruising.  
Not to mention $4 spark pulgs vs $1000 injectors!

In addition, Moyer Marine, the premiere A4 support source, recently announced that they are now producing newly cast A4 blocks!

The purported 'risks" of a gas engine vs a diesel turned out to be mostly fluff.  True, diesel wont explode, but virtually all diesel owners still carry gas onboard to power their
dinghy outboard.  And many of them think nothing of using propane, which carries the same risk of explosion as gas.  The bottom line is that you always have to observe
proper precautions and maintenance to avoid a fire or explosion, regardless of your powerplant.

In order to balance between time and money, I elected to tear down my old engine to a "short block", and replace it with a professionally rebuilt short block from Moyer Marine,
reusing the major external components (alternator, head, manifold, carb) off of my old engine, as they were all less than 5 years old.

It was absolutely necessary to cut out the cabinet strut to get out the old A4 and replace it.  I came up with a clever way to minimize the visible cut lines when it is reassembled.

My rebuilt A4 runs great.  Smooth and quiet, due to it's 4 cylinders, unlike the 2-cylinder MD11C.

Adjustable engine mounts made alignment very straightforward, and I highly recommend them.

My total cost was between $5k - $6k, including converting to fresh water cooling.

[Griswald]

I also have an engine repower in my future (I think).  From what I have seen, I like the Beta also.  But, it seems the 28 HP is really big for the space.  I did anyone consider the 25 HP Beta?  It is almost the same size as the 20 HP Beta, which are both considerably smaller than the 28 HP.  The only thing is, the raw water pump ends up back in the cockpit locker (as with the MD11C) for the 20 and 25 HP Betas.

The guy behind me in my marina also has a Pearson 323 and he did a repower with a 20 HP Volvo -- that thing fits great, lots of access space around the engine.  He loves it, and feels it has plenty of power, but he mainly does Galveston Bay sailing, and doesn't have too many electrical loads (no radar, etc).  He said it was $15000, for the engine, and install, and they took the old motor (which was not running -- it failed on him -- I don't know the details).  i could possibly get more info if you want.  I don't know if he changed the prop or shaft.

I would consider a 20 HP, but on principle, I couldn't buy another Volvo, because the charge excessively for MD11C parts.  Anyone with experience with a new 20 HP on the Pearson 323?

I assume with any of these, you have to evaluate the prop matching with the higher RPM motors.