MD11C saga continues (aka need new engine)

[jwspeck]

Hey folks,

Thanks for the tons of help on other threads. My MD11C story continues having replaced and put on a new primary fuel filter and with everyone's guidance bled it.

Unfortunately when I try to start the engine there is a meaty thunk as it sounds like the starter tries to turn the flywheel, but it doesn't turn. I tried to turn it by hand and was unable to do so (although the angle is terrible.) I then tried to release the compression levers. Unfortunately the one on the cylinder furthest from the flywheel can't go up all the way because a bulkhead is in the way.

My theory is that I flooded the cylinders with seawater when I was cranking too much when I had a fuel blockage. Oops.

I tried to open the valves on the engine to drain the seawater but due to poor access and the fact that they seem to be falling apart due to rust, was unable to do it.

That was a couple of weeks ago and in the meantime I've decided to replace the engine. I got a soup to nuts quotes for a Beta for 19K. I got a quote from a similar price from a Yanmar dealer. They both are estimating 40-50 hours of labor. A local Volvo dealer said an engine would be about 8k, but didn't know what transmission to use.

I've decided to do as much of the labor myself as possible. I figure since I want to potentially start cruising the world in a couple of years learning as much about all this stuff will come in handy. Also I can't stand the thought of paying 19K which could turn in to 25k as often the happens with quotes for boat work.

Couple of questions:
- The Beta options seems pretty straight forward and I've read several other Pearson 323 owners doing this work. Need to put in a ZF15 MIV transmission though. Someone mentioned I might need a new prop shaft. Are prop shafts left/right handed?

- The Yanmar option I assume also requires a ZF 15MIV, I haven't seen any other Pearsons going Yanmar though. Anyone have a Yanmar in their P323?

- The Volvo dealer I called didn't know at all what transmission to use. The Volvo D-130 is the least expensive and if it didn't require a new prop and shaft, that would be awesome. Anyone have any experience with a D-130 in a P323? What transmission would work?

- Any other engine choices I'm missing? I saw someone put a Universal in their P323, but haven't gotten a quote from anyone.

- I've also been looking for used, running engines, but haven't had much luck. Any good sites I might be missing?

- Anyone ever change their prop shaft without hauling out? 

Thanks,
John Speck

[Carefree_Highway]

John,
I think you might be talking about a D1-30? This is the engine I have in my boat. I'm pretty sure it can be mounted frontward or backwards, but my D1-30 has a saildrive and mounts forward. The PO of Carefree Highway had it put in and the work had to be quite extensive. It has a Engine Bed that had to be glasses into the hull.

How well this will ultimately work out, I do not know. Just about every newer sailboat I have seen  these days has adapted the saildrive type of propulsion system. I was told by the mechanic that checked this motor/drive system out when I bought it that I gave less for Carefree Highway than it cost to have the motor/drive installed. The engine has less than 250 hours on it now, but it sat a couple of years with old fuel in the tank and it needs to have the tank polished.

Good Luck!

Randal

[jwspeck]

Saga update.

I have purchased:
- Beta 25 with a Hurth ZF 15 MIV transmission
- Upgraded 75 amp alternator for the Beta 25 (probably overkill)
- New prop shaft, cutlass bearing, coupler for the Hurth

Current project status:
- Got a tow to SF Boatworks from Vessel Assist. Was free because I have BoatUS gold towing which sure seems like a good deal.
- I had already disconnected most of the connections to the engine myself. I then undid all the bolts that go in to the stringers. Getting the last two bolts out on the port aft side required me to remove my batteries from my battery box, lay down in the port sail locker and reach way down to the stringers. I used the fuel tank as a place to my tools
- I put cardboard on the cabin floor followed with a layer of plywood and an extra sheet of thick plywood just by the engine compartment. I also cut a number of 2" x 6" beams of about 2' in length to use as props, wedges, etc.
- A SF Boatworks mechanic lifted the old engine out with a crane. Took about 3 hours. All of the plywood and small blocks of wood came in very handy.
- We tried to muscle the prop shaft coupler off but it wasn't budging and we didn't have a puller the right size. I asked him to just cut the shaft since I had no plan to try and sell my old one. It turns out it would have been easier had I left the prop attached to the transmission since they say they could have just yanked it off the coupler. I'm happy with how this turned out though.
- Per the mechanic's reccommendation I ordered a new shaft, but unkeyed and in a longer size than I need to use as a "blank." In this case it's 66". I'm waiting for that to arrive.
- This weekend I get to clean the engine compartment and paint it!

[selene]

For my interest - did SF Boatworks have to cut out the column amidships/below the sink (between the cover behind the companionway stairs, and the hinged door under the sink)? Somehow when Selene was repowered - with a Westerbeke - the old engine was removed, and the new installed, without cutting that part.  Must have been a tight fit.

Do enjoy cleaning up that engine compartment - wish I had the access to clean up mine!

I think this hybrid model of you doing some of the work, SF doing the heavy lifting (literally!) is great.  They are not a bad yard, but they definitely benefit from an experienced owner being there keeping an eye on things. Like all yards, the work can be variable at times.

Also, you may want to consider a PSS drip-free seal - I know SF Boatworks install them.

[Captain Bri]

I have the Volvo D1-30 in Sea Fever with around 230 hours and it runs great.  It has an adapter plate for the original transmission and V-drive which are still in good condition. The PO had it installed and the installer recommended increasing the raw water intake to 3/4".

Also noticed that the owners registry database has 20+ boats re-powered with a Yanmar.  Follow the registry link from the home page.