Pearson Yachts Forum

Pearson Boats - Common Systems => Ports & Hatches => Topic started by: Captain Bri on May 12, 2011, 11:17:20 AM

Title: Deck Hatches
Post by: Captain Bri on May 12, 2011, 11:17:20 AM
Our 1981 #288 has broken arms on each of the hatches. We would like to refurbish the old ones if we can get parts. I have not found any identifiers on these hatches -- Does anyone know what make/model of hatches were used on their 323?  
Title: Re: Deck Hatches
Post by: Dolce_Vita on May 12, 2011, 01:39:59 PM
The hatches were made by Bomar.  They are Bomar's 100 series.

I have full specs and part numbers on my website:
http://www.chessie.com/boat/deck.shtml

Bomar is now part of Gray/Pompanette.
As of 2010, these hatches and parts were still available.
Title: Re: Deck Hatches
Post by: Captain Bri on May 12, 2011, 10:57:38 PM
Great - exactly what I was looking for. A lot of good information on that Deck Equipment Page -

I need to add a link to it on pearson323.com, or perhaps you would grant permission for us to reprint it. with credit to author
Title: Re: Deck Hatches
Post by: Dolce_Vita on May 15, 2011, 09:11:06 PM
Either way is fine by me.  Consider this permission!
Title: Re: Deck Hatches - BOMAR
Post by: dooley1 on August 15, 2011, 08:53:37 AM
I was so happy to find this info.  I have a hatch that is leaking like crazy and the gaskets are hard as a rock.  As of today, Aug 15 2011, Pompanette in NH still has Bomar spare parts and are selling the gasket material by the foot - part # P100-52.  tel: (603) 826 5791
Title: Re: Bomar Hatch Gasket
Post by: dooley1 on August 19, 2011, 10:28:25 AM
Has anyone installed new gaskets in their Bomar hatches?  Curious if you used any sealants, adhesives, etc...
Title: Re: Deck Hatches
Post by: GusF16 on January 29, 2013, 02:03:27 PM
I'm awaiting a reply from pompanette; meanwhile, what is the thickness of the lexan for the hatches? 3/8"? I'm refurbishing the hatches and can find all the other info (thanks Ed) and parts, just not sure about thickness.
Title: Re: Deck Hatches
Post by: selene on January 29, 2013, 03:01:19 PM
Dooley1 - I just replaced the hatch gaskets on mine.  In fact, I replaces the hatch gaskets, opening port gaskets, and rebedded one of the fixed ports!

I bought the new hatch gaskets from Bomar.  These are circular in cross-section, and come with a layer of adhesive; they fit into a semi-circular depression, and the adhesive keeps them there.   You superglue the ends to ensure a continuous strip. 

Unfortunately I can't find my receipt to tell you what length I ordered- probably somewhere on the boat!

Title: Re: Deck Hatches
Post by: Dolce_Vita on January 31, 2013, 12:15:37 AM
I'm awaiting a reply from pompanette; meanwhile, what is the thickness of the lexan for the hatches? 3/8"? I'm refurbishing the hatches and can find all the other info (thanks Ed) and parts, just not sure about thickness.

I rebuilt mine last year. The lenses are 3/16" thick Lexan.  Lexan lenses are much thinner than Acrylic ones.  That's why they have the reinforcing bars underneath them.  Although the Lexan is very strong, it will flex when stepped upon if unsupported.  This flexing would cause foreshortening of the lens width and separate the seal at the edge, causing them to leak.

A 3/16" thick lens stands just slightly proud of the lip on the hatch.  This prevents standing water from accumulating on the hatch.

When I ordered my lexan from Mcmaster-Carr, I paid extra and got the UV/Scratch-resistant coating, as Lexan has a tendency to fog with UV exposure.  I then used the old lenses to  create a template out of 3/4" MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard), stuck it onto the Lexan with turner's tape, and used a router with a sharp template bit to cut out the lenses.   For lens bedding, I used Dow Corning 795 which is excellent for this application.

As for the hatch frames themselves, after disassembly, I took them to a custom auto paint shop and had them powder coated.  I expect this will outlast the boat.  If you go for powder coating, be sure to tell the shop to bake them before priming to get them to outgas.  If this is not done, it will produce bubbles in the finished coating, as salt water corrosion causes the frames to become quite porous at the microscopic level.