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Messages - Vantage

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1
Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Chainplate Dimensions
« on: November 20, 2016, 01:13:42 PM »
In the future, when i have a bit more time, I will do a big write up on replacing chainplates. By the  end of winter I will have replaced all my chainplates.

Keep this in mind. Removing the nuts and bolts is a major deal. Expect to have to cut most if not all bolts/nuts off. Also keep in mind you will be in cramped quarters.

Keep this in mind also. Replacing chainplates like I am doing here requires deck work!!!

Craig

2
Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Chainplate Dimensions
« on: November 19, 2016, 12:33:52 PM »
Look like Pearson used .25"x1.5" SS bar stock for port and starboard chain plates. The hull attached chainplates for the upper (middle) shroud are about 14.25". The fore and aft chainplates are 12". The spacing and centering of the bolt holes is not exact. Middle chainplate 2.25" to 2.5". On the fore and aft chainplates 2.25" and 3". I plan on filling the holes on the boat with epoxy and glass and redrilling.

316 Stainless bar stock can be ordered from OnlineMetals.com    http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=662&step=4&showunits=inches&id=27&top_cat=1 

Cost about $1.37/inch for custom lengths. Cheaper for standard lengths. Easier to cut, drill and polish than one might expect.

I'm actually not using stainless to replace my chainplates, but fabricating them from carbon fiber/resin and glassing them into the boat. The ones that cannot be easily inspected anyway.

Craig

3
You can get the plans from the designer http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/bowroof.html

4
It only took me a couple days work to get this far. As soon as the wind and rain let up, on goes the cover and ends.

5
So the boat yard wanted $1750 for cold storage work space just for one winter. And Oh yea, don't make any dust! Yea, right!

My plans suggested I might need a year or more of dry workspace. What to do?

Truck the boat home and build an inexpensive temporary shelter! The Stimsom Bow-Roof Shed!

My progress so far.

Craig
S/V Coral Rae

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Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: which Loos gauge?
« on: June 25, 2015, 10:21:31 PM »
I bought a new Loos standard model 90 on EBay last week for $40.00 with the "make an offer feature". It came very quickly. I plan to try it out tomorrow.  I think $40 is a good price? The seller has one or two more left in inventory.

7
Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Reefing pad eye replacement?
« on: May 06, 2015, 08:07:35 PM »
I have at least one and probably two. You can have them. I took them off when I refinished the boom and mast. I also internalized the outhaul and simplified the refining system while I was at it.

Let me know if you want them. Craig

8
Deck Mounted Hardware / Winch size. How big is to big?
« on: May 06, 2015, 01:20:19 PM »
I have the opportunity to buy a pair of Lewmar 55ST winches that are only a few years old and in great shape for less than half the price of a new pair of Lewmar 46ST winches. Will 50's be to much winch? To big? To slow? I haven't measured, but I think they will fit OK. I can't help thinking there is a down side to this plan. I must admit, there is a certain appeal to those big boys.

Right now, I'm still using standard (non-self tailing) Lewmar 43's that are in great shape from the late 1990's or newer. I thought I would keep these mounted, but move them back farther on the combing.

Any comments, input, corrections of faulty thinking will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Craig

9
Found this video from Compass Marine - this guy has a good website for boat projects.  May inspire you!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MlnpptrqO8

What a great idea!

10
In researching this I have found several opinions stating that the quality of fuel when considering older small diesel motors is not very critical.  That in fact, these old diesels will burn just about anything and that it is the newer model diesels that are susceptible to poor fuel quality. One of these articles was by an old farmer turned sailor who said that old diesel, 4-5 years or more in the tank, was never an issue with his tractors, pumps and equipment so long as it made it past the filter.

Still, I have to admit I would feel much better with a squicky clean tank of fresh fuel.

I could find no one in my area who polishes fuel.

I baught a cheap siphone kit and extra hose today. Still not sure what the best approach will be?

11
General Discussion / Re: Insurance scam-
« on: April 20, 2015, 08:57:30 AM »
Wow, you guys scared the crap out of my friend. He now has liability coverage and with all the money he has spent on improvements and upgrades, he may buy full coverage.  Thank you all!

12
it has been strongly suggested to me by someone I trust, that my tank, based on usage last summer contains mostly old fuel. Perhaps very old fuel and needs to be removed before launch in a few weeks. I'm shrink wrapped on the hard at the moment. So, what is the best way to pump/remove the old deisel from my tank? Do any of you have experience with this? I've been told I may dispose of the old fuel in the old oil, oil change barrel. Also, is there any way I can clean or scrub the tank while it is empty?

Thanks much, Craig

13
General Discussion / Re: Insurance scam-
« on: March 17, 2015, 03:39:14 PM »
Suppose, just for the sake of discussion, someone (certainly not me) was to decide not to insure a boat. A P323. Other than the chance of a total loss of the boat, what other down side would there be. Convince this dumb ass he or she really needs insurance on a 35yr old boat. The bone head sails mostly on Lake Erie.

14
Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: In mast wires
« on: May 20, 2014, 10:18:32 AM »
I refinished the mast and boom on our boat last summer (not a project to be undertaken lightly if you plan on doing it correctly).  I had new sheaves made by Zypherwerks and ran all four new lines internally. This made it critical to keep all the wiring out of the way. Our mast did not have any type of internal conduit. I solved this problem by riveting a 1" id PVC electrical conduit inside the mast to the forward part of the mast where the radius is tightest. Using a Klien Tools 50' steel fish tape (Home Depot about $25 and worth it's weight in gold) I first pulled,one length of Anchor 14/2 AWG to the opening for the deck flood light above the spreaders (I had pre-cut a hole in the conduit at the correct length for this). I then pulled the wire for the Raymarine wind combo intrument, a length of RG213 (very large diam mil-spec VHF cable) and 2 lengths of Anchor 14/2 AWG from the masthead down all in one pull planned very carefully and not skimping on the good black electrical tape. Again, one pull with the fish tape, everything.

I have room for more. Any suggestions? Cat-5 or similar wire perhaps? The stick will be going back into the little hole on top of my cabin deck in 2-3 weeks.

Using a good fish tape it would be no problem pulling wire up a standing mast. Buy good wire and don't skimp. You will pay one way or another.

Mac

15
Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Traveller
« on: May 13, 2014, 10:08:27 AM »
My original intent was to move the traveler to the cabin top and use a mid boom sheeting arrangement. The cost of using Garhauer equipment was not significantly more than the just replacing the existing traveler configuration as I did. But in the end I decided to leave the design as Bill Shaw intended. I also left the halyard winches on the mast and the reefing system alone for the same reason. Replacing worn out equipment is one thing, but design changes need to be considered very carefully. Just my opinion. Mac

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